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Friday, December 4, 2009

How To Ride Through The Rocks

Some call them “baby heads,” because the largest rocks that a cross-country mountain bikes can roll over for any distance are about the size of a toddler’s noggin. Most riders call them rock gardens and steer well clear of such things. There comes a time, however, when you’ll have to pedal over a patch of rocks—perhaps because you were traveling too fast to stop in time, or maybe because you’d like to ford a shallow creek bed without making a mess of your brand new shoes. Either way, you’ll find that, with a few tips and the ability to “flow with the changes,” you can ride over and around a very nasty section of baby heads and live to enjoy the experience in mountain bikes.

Choose and commit: Choose your line well before you enter the rocks. Firm up your arms and upper body and pedal smoothly. Commit to your line.

Meet your new friend Mo.
Bouncing over rocks in mountain bikes uses a lot of energy, so be prepared to ride into the baby heads with a little speed. Momentum is your friend, but don’t overdo it. Pedal into the rocks at about jogging speed. Choose a gear that is about midway through the cogset and in the granny chainring, or use the middle ring paired with the lowest cog.

Straight is great: Choose the straightest possible line that takes you over the smallest rocks. Look well ahead so you won’t fixate on a difficult section and fail.

“Get straight; move ahead.”
Pick the straightest possible line through the rock garden. Survey your options well before you reach the point of no return and then commit to your mountain bikes line. As you reach the rocks, fix your gaze at least ten feet ahead. Avoid fixating on any single boulder along the way. If you do, you will get sucked into the rock, smack it, and then stall. Pedal smoothly and in circles as if your legs were an electric motor.

The right way: When a sizeable rock looms in your path, hit it and roll up and over. Avoid abrupt changes in mountain bikes direction.

Adopt the “Icebreaker” position.
The key to blasting through boulders is to lower your body slightly and get centered between the mountain bikes wheels. Bend your elbows slightly and brace your arms and shoulders. Imagine that you are punching at the rocks ahead with your front wheel. There is no need for a lot of leg power. In fact, bursts of power will vector you off line and ruin your balance. Keep pedaling smoothly and effortlessly, eyes forward. Let the mountain bike’s front suspension punch through the rocks

The wrong way: Trying to ride around tricky sections risks losing your balance. Ride as straight as possible, but if you do get deflected off line, go with the flow—follow your mountain bikes until you are balanced again.

Walk the dog.
There is no way that your mountain bikes will stay on your chosen line. Rocks shift and roll under your tires and you must also wiggle around to keep your balance. Keep your Ice Breaker stance with your upper body, but let the bike find its own line. If your bike drifts off line, follow it like you are walking the dog. As long as you are maintaining a relatively straight path across the rocks, it doesn’t matter if you veer a yard to the left or right. Go with the flow, but always with conviction.
Too much is a bad thing: Hard charging through the boulders will usually end in disaster. If you don’t carom off line, your mountain bikes rear wheel will probably bounce high and cause your mountain bikes to nose into a boulder—it could hurt.

Believe in your mountain bikes.
Okay, you have chosen a good line, pedaled with conviction, followed your bike off line a couple of times and kept your eyes forward. Now you must pass the final test: the deal-breaker boulder. It always happens—a large rock, bigger than you imagine that your tires can roll over, looms directly in your path. Do you attempt to steer around it, or play it safe, hit the brakes and start walking? Neither. Attempting to round a corner in a rock garden will destroy your momentum. Believe in the capabilities of your mountain bikes. Keep pedaling and simply bash up and over the boulder. Any rock that meets your tire at or below the axle level can be safely rolled. Don’t even lift the front wheel, just bash and dash. Maintaining a straight line is your best survival tool in the boulders.

Understanding Tire Terminology

Understanding Tire Terminology of Mountain Bikes.

ROTATION DIRECTION
If the tire’s tread pattern or even compound is designed to work while rolling in a specific direction, the company will stamp their recommended rotating direction. Follow their advice or your buddies will razz you if they notice you’ve mounted the tire backwards. Some tires have bidirectional tread so you don’t need to worry.

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN
Get the magnifying glass out. This can be in tiny type.

HOT PATCH
Normally, a rectangular, multicolored ID stencil that lists the tire model and tire size. Other information can include the compound, casing construction and bead type. The hot patch is located on the drive side of the wheel (on bidirectional tires, the hot patch might be located on the non-drive side or the tire maker will use a hot patch on both sides).

MOLD NUMBERS
The manufacturer’s mold number doesn’t mean anything to the rider. Factory workers use this number to place the correct tires in the correct molds for curing.

AIR PRESSURE RANGE
These are recommended minimum and maximum air pressures for the tire. This tire should be used with at least 30 psi and no more than 50 psi. For those readers enjoying MBA in a foreign country, the other numbers represent the same thing (psi minimums and maximums) in bar’s and kpa’s.

TIRE SIZE (millimeters)
There are two numbers inside the parentheses. The first is the tread width target in millimeters. The second is the metric diameter of the bead (all 26-inch tires will show the number 559).

TIRE SIZE (inches)
The first number is the tire diameter and the second is the tire’s width. In this case, it is a 26-inch tire that is 2.5 inches wide.

Get the best tire for special adenture with Mountain Bikes

Monday, November 30, 2009

Dutch Fourcross Series 2008

On Sunday, June 15th, the Bikepark Groningen foundation will organize the kick-off of the Dutch Fourcross Series 2008. On the bikepark in the city of Groningen, the Dutch Fourcross mountain bikes season will start spectacularly.

The Fourcross track has undergone several changes, which results in a more exciting experience for the riders and the spectators. Together with the Sparerib Express mountain bikes, the Bikepark Groningen Foundation offers free barbecue for all the participating riders and volunteers after the race.

This year, the Dutch Fourcross Series will consist of two races. On September 20th. the second race will be held. We will inform you about this mountain bikes event in due time.

Further information:

Date: June, 15 2008
Place: Bikepark Groningen, Recreational area Kardinge, city of Groningen, The Netherlands

9.00 - 12.00: registration time for the riders
10.00 - 12.00: Training
from 13.00: qualification
from 14.30: heats
from 17.30: final heats
from 18.00: prize ceremony and barbeque for riders and volunteers.

Costs:
€ 15,- per race
€ 25,- when you register for both races at June 15th .

When registered, the mountain bikes riders receive a numberplate, which must be mounted on the handelbars. This plate can not be changed between the 2 races. When lost, riders can buy a new one for € 2,50 from the Bikepark Groningen Foundation.

Registration is only possible at the bikepark during both race days.

www.bikeparkgroningen.nl

source: Stichting Bikepark Groningen


Thursday, November 26, 2009

Other Mountain Bikes Accessories

Continuing last post about mountain bikes accessories and you won’t come up short on the trail.

Mountain Bikes Shorts – Ride Longer and Stay Comfortable
The first few mountain bikes rides you take can be a bit uncomfortable on the rear end. Your body does adjust to this after a few rides, but bike shorts are a great accessory that can help keep it to a minimum. Fortunately, the days of the tight fitting Lycra mountain bikes shorts are over. You can still buy them and some racers still use them but the more comfortable padded mountain bikes shorts of today look and feel much more casual.


Mountain Bikes Shoes – Pedal More Efficiently and Keep Comfortable
You need to pick the type of shoes you wear depending on the type of pedals you have and the type of riding you want to do. If you have clipless type pedals, as I recommend for most types of riding, you will need to get some mountain bikes specific shoes to accept the special cleat for your pedals. A good mountain bikes shoe will be durable, comfortable and should have a stiff sole for better pedaling efficiency. You should also pick the right shoe for the terrain you will be riding in.

Eye Protection – Protect Your Vision from Wind, Bugs, and Dirt
Something in your eye can run you right off the trail and into trouble. Eye protection such as sunglasses or clear-lensed glasses help keep your eyes free from debris as well as protect them from the wind that can cause your eyes to tear and blur your vision. Make sure you use non-breakable lenses for safety at you running mountain bikes.

Hydration System – Keep Yourself Hydrated for Better Energy and Health
Bring either a water bottle with you or as I recommend take a hydration backpack such as a Camelbak or similar product. It is easy to let yourself get dehydrated so bring water with you and drink it on the trail to keep your body running properly as you ride. Get healthy with mountain bikes

Necessary Mountain Bikes Accessories

The beginner mountain biker can get a little overwhelmed when they first walk into a bike store to buy their first mountain bikes and all of the mountain bikes accessories they will need to start riding.

There is no shortage of mountain bikes accessories and related product that you can buy. The sales staff will certainly sell you anything they can but the real question for beginners and bikers on a budget is not what mountain bikes accessories are cool, but what you need to have to make your rides safe and enjoyable. Start with these accessories and you won’t come up short on the trail.

The Bike Helmet – The Most Important Mountain Bikes Accessory
This is a shameless plea, but please wear a bike helmet. Nobody should be on a bike without a helmet. There have been too many people with serious head injuries that could have been prevented if they were wearing a helmet. Modern mountain bikes helmets are both comfortable and stylish and everyone on the trail wears one.

Mountain Bikes Gloves – A Mountain Bikes Accessory for Comfort and Safety
When you ride, your hands can take a beating. Beginners who tend to keep a death grip on the handlebars can be especially brutal on their hands. Your hands are also one of the first things to come down to the ground when you crash and everyone crashes at some point. Mountain bikes gloves are a great mountain bikes accessory because they take the beating for you. I recommend full-fingered gloves over the cutoff finger type. Don’t get caught red handed.

Trail Repair Kit – Make It Home When it Counts
Its not to hard to get stuck in the woods if you don’t bring the most basic mountain bikes accessories for the most common repairs on the trail. To be prepared bring a multi-tool designed to repair bikes, tire levers and a patch kit for fixing flats, an extra tube in case your tube us un-repairable, and a mini-pump.

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Mountain Bikes Suspension

In the past mountain bikes had a rigid frame and fork. In the early 1990s, the first mountain bikes with suspension forks were introduced. This made riding on rough terrain easier and less physically stressful. The first suspension forks had about 1½ to 2 inches (38 to 50 mm) of suspension travel. Forks are now available with 6 inches (150mm) of travel or more (see above under "Design.") Mountain bikes with front suspension and rigid, non-suspended rear wheels, or hardtails became popular nearly overnight. While the hardtail design has the benefits of lower cost, less maintenance, and better pedaling efficiency, it is slowly losing popularity due to the increases in full suspension designs.

Many new mountain bikes have a "full suspension" design, meaning that both front suspension forks and some form of rear suspension are used, as opposed to front suspension only ("hard tail"). The advantages of dual suspension are increased comfort on rough terrain, and improved handling over obstacles. Disadvantages of rear suspension are increased weight, increased price, and with some designs, decreased pedaling efficiency. At first, early rear suspension designs were overly heavy, and susceptible either to pedaling-induced bobbing or lockout at certain points of the suspension arc or travel. One of the most popular rear suspension designs to solve these issues has been the 'Horst Link' which first appeared with the AMP series of bikes, and was later adopted by Specialized and many other mountain bikes manufacturers.

Mountain Bikes Disc Brakes

Completing wheel, most modern downhill mountain bikes now feature disc brakes. These offer improved stopping power over rim brakes under adverse conditions, because they are located at the center of the wheel (on the wheel hub) and therefore remain drier and cleaner than wheel rims, which are more readily soiled or damaged. While the traditional mountain bikes cantilever and V-brake style braking system provided ample braking for fully rigid bikes and the earlier, less sophisticated suspension fork-equipped bicycles, as suspension has evolved bicycle speeds have increased. Disc brakes offer the capacity for sustained heavy braking with fewer problems of brake fade than are encountered with rim brakes, allowing greater safety margins with less rider fatigue, greater modulation and therefore control of mountain bikes.

The disadvantage of disc brakes is their increased cost and often greater weight. Hydraulic disc brakes, which work by moving brake fluid through a hose or line to squeeze the pads together, require much more technical maintenance but enjoy much longer service intervals than their mountain bikes mechanical counterparts. Mechanical disc brakes, which are simpler and somewhat less expensive, work in a similar fashion to rim brakes by pulling one pad towards the disc with a cable as old mountain bikes.

The braking power of a disc brake also depends on the size of the rotor. For example, an 8-inch rotor has more stopping power than an 6 inch rotor of the same brake mountain bikes design (about 33% more). This is because the brake caliper can apply more torque with the same amount of force because the larger disc provides a longer moment arm.

Wheel and Tire Mountain Bikes Design

Most modern mountain bikes use 26 in (559 mm) bicycle wheels, though some models offer 24 or 29 in (520 or 622 mm) wheels. Bicycle wheel sizes are not precise measurements, a 29 inch mountain bike wheel actually has a 622 mm (24.48 inch) bead seat diameter (the term, bead seat diameter (BSD), is used in the ETRTO tire and rim sizing system). 622 mm wheels are standard on road bikes and are commonly known as 700c. In some countries, mainly in Continental Europe, 700c (622 mm) wheels are commonly called 28 inch wheels.

24 inch wheels are used for dirt jumping bikes and sometimes on freeride bikes, rear wheel only, as this makes the bike more maneuverable. 29 inch wheels were once used for only Cross Country purposes, but are now becoming more commonplace in other disciplines of mountain bikes.

Along history, wheels come in a variety of widths, ranging from standard rims suitable for use with tires in the 26 in x 1.90 in to 2.10 in (559 x 48 to 53 mm) size, to 2.35 and 3.00 in (60 and 76 mm) widths popular with freeride and downhill or mountain bikes.

Mountain bikes manufacturers produce a wide variety of tread patterns to suit different needs. Among the styles are: slick street tires, street tires with a center ridge and outer tread, fully knobby, front-specific, rear-specific, and snow studded. Some tires can be specifically designed for use in certain weather (wet or dry) and terrain (hard, soft, muddy, etc) conditions. Other mountain bikes tire designs attempt to be all-around applicable. Within the same intended application, more expensive tires tend to be lighter and have less rolling resistance. Sticky Rubber tires are now available for use on freeride and downhill bikes. While these tires wear down more quickly, they provide greater traction in all conditions, especially during cornering. Tires and rims are available in either tubed or tubeless designs, with tubeless tires recently (2004) gaining favor for their pinch flat resistance. Tubeless tires can also be run at lower air pressures to improve traction and increasing rolling resistance. Popular mountain bikes tire manufacturers include Wilderness Trail Bikes, Schwalbe, Maxxis, Nokian, Michelin, Continental, Tioga, Kenda, Hutchinson and Panaracer.

Modern Trend Design Mountain Bikes

From along history until recently, mountain bikes had road bicycle style frames and geometry. Mountain biking has since become more mainstream with riding styles becoming more aggressive. Newer frames are better-designed, lighter, and stronger, with a geometry that allows for much more spirited riding over obstacles like logs, rocks, wooden bridges, and man-made ramps.

Newer mountain bikes have either 21, 24, or 27 speeds, with 3 gears in the front and 7, 8, or 9 gears at the rear wheel. 30 speed mountain bikes are currently unworkable, as a slimmer 10-speed chain is not strong enough.

Some of the latest trends in mountain bikes include the all mountain bikes, the 29er and the singlespeed. The "all mountain bike" is characterized by 4-6 inches (100-150mm) of travel, the ability to descend and handle very rough conditions and still pedal efficiently for climbing. 29er bikes are those using 700c sized rims (as do most road bikes), but wider and suited for tires of two inches (50mm) width or more; the increased diameter wheel is able to roll over obstacles better and offers a greater tire contact patch. The single-speed is considered a return to simplicity with no drivetrain components or shifters, but thus requires a stronger rider.

Following the growing trend in 29 inch bikes (29ers as stated above), there have been other trends in the mountain biking community involving tire size. One of the more prevalent is the new, somewhat esoteric and exotic 650B (27.5 inch) wheelsize, based on the obscure wheel size for touring road bikes.

Another interesting trend in mountain bikes is outfitting dirt jump or urban bikes with rigid forks. These bikes normally use 4-5" travel suspension forks. The resulting product is used for the same purposes as the original bike. A commonly cited reason for making the change to a rigid fork is the enhancement of the rider's ability to transmit force to the ground, which is important for performing tricks.

Rapid popularity increase has led to the development of mountain bike oriented resorts, similar to or in the same complex as a ski resort or abandoned factory, such as Ray's MTB Indoor Park. Their parks include chairlifts which are adapted to bikes, a number of trails of varying difficulty, and bicycle rental.

Oriented Designs Mountain Bikes

Finished Part Oriented Designs of Mountain Bikes.

Dirt Jumping, Urban and Street mountain bikes lie somewhere in between a trials bike, a BMX bike and a freeride bike. They are typically very strong bikes, with 4 inches (100 mm) of front suspension, and rarely any rear suspension (3 to 4 inches, 76 to 100 mm, if any), with as many as nine gears or as few as one. Tires on these bikes are usually fast-rolling, slick or semi-slicks. Dirt Jumpers usually sport a geometry of 24-26" tires, as well as a bashring (a type of bashguard) replacing the largest ring on the crankset. Dirt jumpers usually have low seatposts and oversized handlebars. Some dirt jumpers also have a detangler installed which allows the rider to spin the handle bars without tangling the brake cables.

Single-speed (SS) mountain bikes have one set gear ratio. The gear ratio chosen depends on the terrain being ridden, the strength and skill of the rider, and the size of the bike (a bike with 29" wheels often requires a different gearing than a bike with standard 26" wheels). Often single-speeds are fully rigid, steel-framed bikes. These are typically ridden by very fit individuals on mild to moderate cross country terrain.

Mountain Cross or "4-cross racing" (4X) is a relatively new style of riding where four bikers race downhill on a prepared, BMX like, track, simply trying to get down first. These bikes are generally either full suspension with 3 to 4 inches (76-100 mm) of travel, or hardtails, and have, typically, quite strong frames. They run a chainguide on front and gears on the back. They have slack head angles, short chainstays and low bottom brackets to aid in cornering and acceleration.

Dual Slalom (DS) is similar to mountain cross, but instead of four bikers competing together, there are just two. Courses usually have a lane for each rider, though some combine to a single lane in places or even for much of the course. The courses are in general more technical with smaller jumps compared to Mountain Cross courses and have gates. Dual Slalom races originally took place on grass slopes with gates and minimal jumps. The same bikes used in Mountain Cross are used.

North Shore mountain biking originated in the steep, wet, rocky, rooty terrain of Vancouver, Canada's north shore, thus it was coined "north shore" riding. Because of the almost, if not completely impassable terrain, riders began building bridges over muddy areas, rocks, stumps and deadfall. These bridges evolved into complex, often extremely challenging, man-made stunts. Because stunts are often narrow and may require the rider to move very slowly regardless of width, north shore riding requires immense balance and bike handling skills. North shore bikes are much like freeride bikes in their geometry and downhill bikes in their component makeup. Because north shore stunts have evolved to not only include simple and complex bridges but also large drops and high speed descents through a series of stunts north shore bikes commonly have as much travel as downhill and freeride bikes, however with much more nimble and maneuverable frame designs, and often lighter-weight.

Circle Dirt Track Racing In this class of racing any kind of bikes are used, most commonly a hard tail mountain bikes with front suspension. There are many different mods available. Such as reducing bike weight, increasing brake power, trying different cambers (so that when the bike leans the tire is more level with the track thus creating more grip), and trying different gear ratios. Although small and uncommon circle dirt track racing is enjoyed by racing fans.

Oriented Designs Mountain Bikes

Continuing Oriented Designs of Mountain Bikes.

Freeride (FR) mountain bikes are similar to All-Mountain bikes, but with less emphasis on weight and more on strength. Freeride bikes tend to have up ample suspension, typically have at least 6 inches (150 mm) of travel. The components are built from stronger, consequently heavier, materials. They can be ridden uphill, but are inefficient and their moderately slack head tube angles make them difficult to maneuver while angled up a hill or traveling at a low speed. They are effective on technical downhill trails. Frame angles are typically steeper than those found in downhill bikes. This enhances maneuverability over and around small objects. Freeride bikes typically range in weight from 30 to 45 pounds. Freeride trails are built using natural terrain features to create stunts such as dropoffs, also known as "hucks", narrow ladder bridges called "skinnies", as well as large ramps built to launch the rider into the air. The most durable freeride bikes are often too heavy and have too much suspension to be ridden uphill as comfortably as other less-sturdy models, although newer, more expensive bikes come with suspension specifically designed to make them easier to ride uphill. It is, however, quite common for freeriders to frequent lift accessed riding terrain, offered at ski resorts during the off season, or simply walk their bikes uphill, rather than riding them.

Downhill (DH) races are time trials events where riders ride courses separately, racing the clock. They can have technical sections like rockgardens as well as jumps and drops. Downhill Bikes typically have 7 or more inches (178 mm) of suspension travel. They are built strong while light. In the past few years, lighter downhill bikes have been getting below the 40lbs mark. Due to their typically large or high gears, long, plush travel and slack geometry angles, Downhill bikes are ideal only for riding down dedicated downhill trails and race courses. Downhill bikes have the most sag of Mountain Bikes to get ample traction to go fast over bumpy trails. Head Angles are often as slack as 64 degrees. At the ski resorts that have mountain biking in the off season, riders can get lots of runs in because of chair lifts. Shuttling up to the top of trails very common as most trails, away from ski resorts do not have lift access. When there is no car or truck access to shuttle, riders usually push and/or ride bikes to the top of the trails. Due to the high speed nature of downhill riding most bikes only have one chain ring in the front, a large bash guard and a chain guide, though many racers are now using chain guides without bash guards to drop weight.

Trials bikes are set up very specifically for the purpose of bicycle trials. Two varieties of trials bike exist, those with 26" wheels (referred to as 'stock') and those with 20" wheels (referred to as 'mod' - because historically they were modified BMX bikes). They typically have no suspension at all, though some still make use of some form of it. Competition rules require stock bikes to have multiple gears for competition, but most riders never use their shifters. Competition rules do not require mod bikes to have any gears. Many non-competitive riders run single-speed, choosing a fairly low-speed, high-torque gear. Most modern trials bikes have no seat at all, as the rider spends all of his time out of the saddle. These bikes are significantly lighter than almost all other mountain bikes, ranging from 15 to 25 pounds. This makes manoveuring the bike much easier.

Oriented Designs Mountain Bikes

In Mountain Bikes History, there are several different styles of mountain biking, usually defined by the terrain, and therefore bikes employed. All of the mountain bikes in this category fall into one of the above four categories and bikes of each of the above style can be found almost any of the following categories.





Cross Country (XC) mountain bikes usually have only a small amount of front and/or rear suspension (usually 65-110 mm) and are relatively light, which is achieved via the use of lightweight materials and construction in both frame and components. As a consequence, XC bikes are often less durable than other types of mountain bikes when used outside of their intended purpose.[citation needed] On full-suspension XC bikes, both front and rear, is typically provided by pneumatic (air) shocks or smaller coil/oil shocks and forks, which saves weight. Some full-suspension XC bikes may weigh as little as 21 pounds. Other XC bikes have only front suspension, and are normally referred to as hardtails. A few XC bike models have no suspension and use a rigid front fork, saving weight but relying more on rider skill to negotiate rough terrain. XC or general riding is the most popular form of mountain biking, focused on climbing and quick turning abilities rather than on the aggressive descent capabilities of freeride or single-purpose downhill mountain bikes. XC bikes reflect this in their lighter weights and steeper geometries. However, due to their lighter frames and suspension, most XC bikes are poor choices for heavy-impact activities such as jumps and high-speed traverse of large obstacles such as rocks and deep washouts.

Enduro/All-Mountain (AM) bikes are generally considerably heavier than XC bikes, typically weighing between 30 and 35 pounds (14 to 16 kg). These bikes tend to feature greater suspension travel, frequently as much as 6 inches (150 mm) of front and rear travel, often adjustable on newer mid and high end bikes. They are designed to be able to ascend mild-to-moderate inclines and descend steep declines, though their relatively heavy overall weight limits their utility in all-day rides involving steep climbs.

Mountain Bikes History

Riding bicycles off-road or mountain bikes goes back to the beginning of cycling itself. Road racing cyclists have long used cyclo-cross as a means of keeping fit during the winter, eventually becoming a sport in its own right with the first world championship in 1950. The French Velo Cross Club Parisien (VCCP) comprised about twenty-one young cyclists from the outskirts of Paris, who between 1951 and 1956 developed a sport that was remarkably akin to present-day mountain biking. The Roughstuff Fellowship was established in 1955 by off-road cyclists in the UK.

However the mountain bikes has its origins in the modified heavy cruiser bicycles used for freewheeling down mountain trails in Marin County, California, U.S.A. in the mid-late 1970s. At the time, there was no such thing as a mountain bikes. The earliest ancestors of modern mountain bikes were based around frames from cruiser bicycles such as those made by Schwinn. The Schwinn Excelsior was the frame of choice due to its geometry. Riders used balloon tired cruisers and later modified them with gears and motocross style handlebars. They were called Klunkers. The term would also be used as a verb since the term "mountain biking" was not yet in use. Riders would race down mountain fireroads, causing the hub brake to burn the grease inside, requiring the riders to repack the bearings. These were called "Repack Races" and triggered the first innovations in mountain bikes technology as well as the initial interest of the public. The sport originated in the U.S. state of California, on Marin county's famous mountain, Mount Tamalpais.

It was not until the late 1970s and early 1980s that road bicycle companies started to manufacture mountain bikes using high-tech lightweight materials. Joe Breeze is normally credited with introducing the first purpose-built mountain bikes in 1978. Tom Ritchey then went on to make frames for a company called Mountain Bikes which was a partnership between Gary Fisher, Charlie Kelley and Tom Ritchey. Tom Ritchey, with his skills in frame building, also built the original bikes. The company's 3 partners ran into rough times and finally fell apart at the 1983 trade show[citation needed]. The designs were basically road bicycle frames (with heavier tubing and different geometry) with a wider frame and fork to allow for a wider tire. The handlebars were also different in that they were a straight, transverse-mounted handlebar, rather than the dropped, curved handlebars that are typically installed on road racing bicycles. Also, some of the parts on early production mountain bikes were taken from the BMX bicycle. The first mass-produced mountain bikes were produced by Specialized in 1983 and were copies of Tom Ritchey's frames, but they were not fillet-brazed, and were made in Japan. They were configured with 15 gears.

Mountain Bikes

A mountain bike or mountain bicycle (abbreviated MTB or ATB (All Terrain Bicycle)) is a bicycle designed for mountain biking, either on dirt trails or other unpaved environments. In contrast, road bicycles are not designed for such rugged terrain.

Mountain bikes have wide, knobby tires for extra traction and shock absorption. In recent years, front wheel suspension has become the norm and full front and rear suspension is becoming increasingly common. Some mountain bikes are also fitted with bar ends on the handlebars, but with the increase in popularity of riser handlebars (as opposed to a flat straight handlebar) fewer riders use bar end extensions. The bikes normally have 26 in (559 mm) wheels, but since 2002 some models have been available with 29 in (622 mm) wheels, which is the same diameter most commonly used for road bikes (also known as 700c).(The name given to a rim diameter in inches is different from the rim's actual size.)

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